Sent: Sunday, February 20, 2000 11:23 AMDoug McLean World Tour 1999-2000Back Home Next
Subject: Feb. 7-10, 2000 - BrasiliaCurrent Date/Location: Sunday, Feb. 20, 2000 in Cuiaba, Brazil at the house of my friend, Ana Paula.
Current Itinerary: Going to Bonito either today...will be there for a few days in nature and swimming/diving...then onward to Belo Horizonte...then Salvador for Carnival!
Editorial Note: Thanks to my comrade Juliano in Brasilia, I have been corrected on one historical point of interest regarding Brasilia. JK (the President who had Brasilia built) was not comunist, the architect was, Oscar Niemeyer.
JOURNAL -
Jan. 7, 2000 (Mon):
Woke at 5:30am in Goiania...hopped in the car with Juliano, his aunt and uncle and headed to Brasilia. Arrived in Brasilia and crashed...we were exhausted.
Woke around 1pm...got my clothes that the maid had washed, dried, ironed and folded...I HAD A MOMENT! Now, let me tell you...for a backpacker to have clean clothes is one thing...to have someone else clean them for you is another...and for someone to clean, iron and fold them for your seems like an incredibly sinful delight that is probably worthy of sending you to hell for eternity! I was that thrilled to get my pile of clothing...ahhhh...it
was true bliss!
Juliano had to go to class, so I stayed at the apartment. Ended up talking with his mother (soon to be Secretary of Tourism for Federal District of Brasilia) and his father. Had a great conversation in Portuguese for over 2
hours...it was great. Had the idea of the Tourism office starting a "Friend for a day" program for visiting foreigners. If a visitor would like to have a friend/guide for the day, they would go to the tourism office and request
a local contact. The tourist office would have a list of volunteers who want to have contact with foreigners and want to practice their language skills. There are so many English/Spanish/French schools here, that it
would be easy to find a number of people who would like to gain fluency by meeting with foreigners...and the visitor would gain the benefit of having a friendly local to show them around the city of Brasilia. This would also
help the reputation of Brasilia which is supposed to be a city without a heart...I think the heart of Brasilia is the people, and if more visitors were able to meet the locals it would be considered a very friendly place. It is an idea...I hope it is implemented.
Jan. 8, 2000 (Tue):
Juliano and I walked to the shopping mall...cruised around looking for new TEVA type sandals for me (the one's I had stollen from the Irish guys are wearing out (see Mar de Plata journal)...go figure...you'd think those darned Irish blokes would have had the common courtesy to buy better sandals for me to wear...Paddies! Pog Ma Hone and God Bless Ye!)...no luck. Went to Caroline's place...met her cousin and shot the bull (talked) for a while...ate some cake and pizza...then went back to Juliano's apartment. Jayne arrived to pick me up...OK...some history...I had met Jayne and her friend Eliene while I was visiting the Rio Youth Hostel in early January. They had said that if I came to Brasilia they would be happy to show me around...so I was here taking them up on the offer. We went to large shopping center and bought new sandals and Portuguese Workbook...Eliene joined us and we wandered around the Mall for awhile...I found TEVA type sandals in my size!!!
We went to the TV Tower which is the visible center of the city...unfortunately, it was closed, but still had a cool view of the city. Then we went to the Concha Acustica (Acoustic Shell)...it is a way cool huge structure that has perfect acoustics and if you stomp your feet, you hear it echo 4-5 times...it is awesome! We then visited the Plaza of 3 Powers which is located between the Legislative, Judicial, and Executive offices of Brazil's Government...hence the name. I had been here several days ealier with Juliano and his mother...but had not visited it at night. It is wonderful and all the unique architecture is lit up magically at night...beautiful.
Then we cruised around for awhile...got hungry...and went to a nice bookstore/cafe that Jayne knew about. It was nice and we had some snacks, and talked about how some folks in this world are born to travel, some are born to be late, some are born to be forgetful...I guess it takes all kinds to make up the world we live in...
Got back to Juliano's apartment and called for Juliano to come down to see us sitting in the car...he came down and we started talking about the costume party that we would be attending on Friday night. We asked the girls if they had any suggestions for costumes...and Jayne came up with an idea so obvious, but so completely unseen by us, that it was painful...we should go in TOGAS!!!
Now, if you have read about my tales of the Pink Palace...you know I am no stranger to a Toga...an I had told uliano about the virtues of the Toga Parties at the Pink Palace...and not once while we were discussing Togas, The Pink Palace and what we would wear to our upcoming costume party did the grey matter in our brains connect any part of them together. OFCOURSE...TOGA!!! Everyone looks good in a toga...it is original...and best of all for both myself and for Juliano...it is CHEAP!!!
We said goodbye to the girls and ran upstairs flush with excitement of having found the solution to our costume worries! Upon arrival in his room, Juliano immediately ripped the sheets off his bed and began to wonder how to
make a toga out of them. My years of Toga expertise paid off as I advised him on the finer points of Toga fashion and modes of wearing one of the most timeless pieces of apparel the world has ever seen. Thus satisfied that we
could Toga to the party he asked how often I had toga'd...I mentioned wistfully that I had worn the mighty sheet of freedom on many occasions, including during a full day in high school for a recital in drama class, to a Halloween Party in a field somewhere outside of Georgetown, Texas, at the Pink Palace (a night that will live in infamy!), and with my friend, Kurt, to a New Year's party at a friend's house...but to this soiree, Kurt and I had dared each other to go commando...which we both did. Thus unencumbered with anything other than a lone sheet (and lots of safety pins...lots and lots!) we attended a party on a freaking, freezing cold day in Georgetown...we would both become very self conscious when someone would report that they had found a safety pin on the ground...many pins were
found...and we were lucky to leave before we were down to our fig-leaves. But, alas, I digress...(see my comments on digression in previous journal)...
Anyway...needless to say, Juliano and I having lots of intestinal fortitude, lots of testesterone, and a much warmer weather forecast, we agreed that we would also go commando! We'll see how macho we feel on Friday! Good night.
Jan. 9, 2000 (Wed):
Woke...had breakfast...Juliano and I went in search of Hepatitis B booster shot for me (3rd dose), Hepatitis A booster shot (2nd dose) and Malaria Pills...first went to one office of the Minesterio of Saude (Minister of Health)...then another...then another...we finally found ourselves in the head building for Minister of Health...we were directed to an office...and found ourselves speaking not only to an expert on Malaria...but THE EXPERT ON MALARIA FOR BRAZIL. She was the National Coordinatior for the Prevention of Malaria in Brazil...one of the benefits of being in the Capital City of Brazil...you can go straight to the top much quicker. Anyway, after much
discussion, she gave me 8 Malaria pills (enough for 1 month) for use while I was in the Amazon areas of the country.
NOTE: There has been a recent outbreak of Yellow Fever in certain parts of Brazil (not in the major/touristy spots)...this has gained lots of media in the past few weeks and shots are being offered to everyone here for free (darn-it...I took mine in the USA and it wasn't cheap!!!). So, if you are coming down here...either get your Yellow Fever shot before you arrive...or get it from the Ministerio de Saude in the big city/port of entry before you
travel into the interior.
We were then directed to another office in the building for Hepatitis A and B. We went to that office and spoke to the National Coordinator for the Prevention of Hepatitis for Brazil. She advised that Brazil only gives Hepatitis shots to people in high risk categories/jobs for Hep B and not at all for Hep A...but, she would arrange for me to get my Hep B shot. They didn't give the shots in that office, but she called another office that did, called and confirmed that we would be visiting and what we needed, and gave us the address.
Returned to the house...had lunch...napped in the hammock in Juliano's room...ahhhhh...woke from my luxurious slumber...went to the other office of health for my Hep B booster shot. She gave me the Hep B booster shot...and
was going to give Juliano a type of shot for prevention of 3 diseases of some sort...don't know what diseases...but figured, what the heck...the more shots and prevention, the better, eh? So I asked for the same shot...she
obliged and now I have been innoculated against something else...I don't have the faintest idea what I was innoculated against...but I feel much better anyway. (For any of you doctors/hypochondriachs (sp?) out there, she
wrote MMR: Lot 9309 Val: 07/2001 0.5 ml on my vaccination certificate...if you know what it is, please tell me, OK?). Anyway, she said that normally Juliano (not being in a high risk category, and not having the special "seal of approval" from the head of Hepatitis Prevention for Brazil) would have to pay for Hep. B innoculation...but since he was so nice, she have him the shot for free...as Juliano says, "...you can get anything you want in Brazil for free if you are just polite enough and know who to ask." ...so far, I have found that to be relatively true. Needless to say, we left the clinic happy...the positive attitude of the lady there had given us a real shot in the arm. (smile)
We then went to a big market area...walked around for awhile...I found a cool pair of sunglasses for 10 Reals ($5 USD) and Juliano shopped for zipper pants (yes, I have been telling ya'll...the newest best thing since sliced
bread...they are pants, they are shorts...they are both!!! The traveller's best friend...) but couldn't find them...they are still too trendy to be very common on Brazil, YET!
Went to visit Caroline at her house...sat around their eating her food and giving her grief in general...she is a very good gal and the type you love to be around but can't help giving lots of grief to...I like to say, "You only give grief to your friends...no point in wasting time on people you don't like." ...and I think it is very true. Called Jayne for dinner, but her back was still hurting her so she postponed until tomorrow.
Returned to the apartment...Juliano went to class, and I continued to read Twain's Roughing It...I am thoroughly enjoying this book...lots of interesting stories...and insights...
Juliano came back from work...we went out on the town...but found that the place we were going was closed on Wednesdays, and the other places seemed dead...so we bagged it and returned home. I hit the internet to catchup on
journals while I had free internet access and in the middle of the night, I would not interfere with anyone wanting to use the phone...one has to be sensitive to this stuff and not wear out one's welcome. Got done with a couple of journals and crashed at 7am...this stuff isn't easy, you know.
Feb. 10, 2000 (Thur):
Woke at 1pm...lunch...went to post office to send about 10 rolls of film back to the parents for safe-keeping. Now, I cannot tell you the trepidation that I feel everytime I send film back home...I mean, my film is my ONLY souvenir besides these journals...I am not buying stuff, I simply have photos, journals, and my fond memories as testament to my trip. I always send the film the highest priority and security possible (in this case it cost me $20USD for a small box), but I always wait with baited breath until the folks send me e-mail confirmation that the package has arrived at home...something akin to "The Eagle has Landed!" always lets me breathe somewhat easier.
Back at the apartment, I continued to read Twain's Roughing It. Then got ready and was picked up by Jayne to tour the city again. Visited Ingreja Dom Bosco...it is a huge square church with all four walls being entirely made of blue stained glass windows and an enormous chandalier in the center...it is beautiful, but impossible to take a picture...some things just have to be remembered. Next, we went back to the TV Tower in the center of the city and went up to the observation deck. It was great...an incredible view of the city. Next, we went to dinner in a restaurant I had seen, called El Paso, Texas (guess why I wanted to go there?). It was reputed to have Tex-Mex food...so we went there and sampled the cuisine. The enchiladas were OK...but the tacos were pretty poor and about half the size of a respectable taco. Also, Brazillians generally don't like anything spicy (hot)...so the salsa was more like Campbell's Tomato Soup than Old El Paso Picante. But, we had a great evening and a nice dinner. One problem with the decor was detected...there was a map on the wall...it showed El Paso and the boarders of Texas, Mexico, and New Mexico...but it labled the area that we know as New Mexico as TEXAS...and Texas was labled as
Mexico...probably some sort of Brazillian joke or Mexican fantasy of revisionist history...anyway, I pointed out the obvious geographical error to the waiters...they said they knew because one other person in the past 5 years had pointed it out...most Brazillians are not terribly knowledgeable of US/Texas/Mexico geography. Jayne dropped me off back at the apartment after dinner...she had to go home and rest because she had a pain in the neck and needed to rest some...or because I was a pain in the neck...I couldn't exactly translate it...oh, well.
When I returned to the apartment, Juliano and I headed out to party with one of his cousin's friends from college in Goiania. We went to pickup Daina and her sister...I had briefly met Daina the week before in Goiania during the bar brawl. Anyway, we went to the Fashion Club in Brasilia and danced the night away. Stayed out late dancing...got in around 4am. Used the internet again until 7am...crashed...
Doug
Texas Nomad
Sent: Sunday, February 20, 2000 11:23 AM
Subject: Feb. 7-10, 2000 - BrasiliaCurrent Date/Location: Sunday, Feb. 20, 2000 in Cuiaba, Brazil at the house of my friend, Ana Paula.
Current Itinerary: Going to Bonito either today...will be there for a few days in nature and swimming/diving...then onward to Belo Horizonte...then Salvador for Carnival!
Editorial Note: Thanks to my comrade Juliano in Brasilia, I have been corrected on one historical point of interest regarding Brasilia. JK (the President who had Brasilia built) was not comunist, the architect was, Oscar Niemeyer.
JOURNAL -
Jan. 7, 2000 (Mon):
Woke at 5:30am in Goiania...hopped in the car with Juliano, his aunt and uncle and headed to Brasilia. Arrived in Brasilia and crashed...we were exhausted.
Woke around 1pm...got my clothes that the maid had washed, dried, ironed and folded...I HAD A MOMENT! Now, let me tell you...for a backpacker to have clean clothes is one thing...to have someone else clean them for you is another...and for someone to clean, iron and fold them for your seems like an incredibly sinful delight that is probably worthy of sending you to hell for eternity! I was that thrilled to get my pile of clothing...ahhhh...it
was true bliss!
Juliano had to go to class, so I stayed at the apartment. Ended up talking with his mother (soon to be Secretary of Tourism for Federal District of Brasilia) and his father. Had a great conversation in Portuguese for over 2
hours...it was great. Had the idea of the Tourism office starting a "Friend for a day" program for visiting foreigners. If a visitor would like to have a friend/guide for the day, they would go to the tourism office and request
a local contact. The tourist office would have a list of volunteers who want to have contact with foreigners and want to practice their language skills. There are so many English/Spanish/French schools here, that it
would be easy to find a number of people who would like to gain fluency by meeting with foreigners...and the visitor would gain the benefit of having a friendly local to show them around the city of Brasilia. This would also
help the reputation of Brasilia which is supposed to be a city without a heart...I think the heart of Brasilia is the people, and if more visitors were able to meet the locals it would be considered a very friendly place. It is an idea...I hope it is implemented.
Jan. 8, 2000 (Tue):
Juliano and I walked to the shopping mall...cruised around looking for new TEVA type sandals for me (the one's I had stollen from the Irish guys are wearing out (see Mar de Plata journal)...go figure...you'd think those darned Irish blokes would have had the common courtesy to buy better sandals for me to wear...Paddies! Pog Ma Hone and God Bless Ye!)...no luck. Went to Caroline's place...met her cousin and shot the bull (talked) for a while...ate some cake and pizza...then went back to Juliano's apartment. Jayne arrived to pick me up...OK...some history...I had met Jayne and her friend Eliene while I was visiting the Rio Youth Hostel in early January. They had said that if I came to Brasilia they would be happy to show me around...so I was here taking them up on the offer. We went to large shopping center and bought new sandals and Portuguese Workbook...Eliene joined us and we wandered around the Mall for awhile...I found TEVA type sandals in my size!!!
We went to the TV Tower which is the visible center of the city...unfortunately, it was closed, but still had a cool view of the city. Then we went to the Concha Acustica (Acoustic Shell)...it is a way cool huge structure that has perfect acoustics and if you stomp your feet, you hear it echo 4-5 times...it is awesome! We then visited the Plaza of 3 Powers which is located between the Legislative, Judicial, and Executive offices of Brazil's Government...hence the name. I had been here several days ealier with Juliano and his mother...but had not visited it at night. It is wonderful and all the unique architecture is lit up magically at night...beautiful.
Then we cruised around for awhile...got hungry...and went to a nice bookstore/cafe that Jayne knew about. It was nice and we had some snacks, and talked about how some folks in this world are born to travel, some are born to be late, some are born to be forgetful...I guess it takes all kinds to make up the world we live in...
Got back to Juliano's apartment and called for Juliano to come down to see us sitting in the car...he came down and we started talking about the costume party that we would be attending on Friday night. We asked the girls if they had any suggestions for costumes...and Jayne came up with an idea so obvious, but so completely unseen by us, that it was painful...we should go in TOGAS!!!
Now, if you have read about my tales of the Pink Palace...you know I am no stranger to a Toga...an I had told uliano about the virtues of the Toga Parties at the Pink Palace...and not once while we were discussing Togas, The Pink Palace and what we would wear to our upcoming costume party did the grey matter in our brains connect any part of them together. OFCOURSE...TOGA!!! Everyone looks good in a toga...it is original...and best of all for both myself and for Juliano...it is CHEAP!!!
We said goodbye to the girls and ran upstairs flush with excitement of having found the solution to our costume worries! Upon arrival in his room, Juliano immediately ripped the sheets off his bed and began to wonder how to
make a toga out of them. My years of Toga expertise paid off as I advised him on the finer points of Toga fashion and modes of wearing one of the most timeless pieces of apparel the world has ever seen. Thus satisfied that we
could Toga to the party he asked how often I had toga'd...I mentioned wistfully that I had worn the mighty sheet of freedom on many occasions, including during a full day in high school for a recital in drama class, to a Halloween Party in a field somewhere outside of Georgetown, Texas, at the Pink Palace (a night that will live in infamy!), and with my friend, Kurt, to a New Year's party at a friend's house...but to this soiree, Kurt and I had dared each other to go commando...which we both did. Thus unencumbered with anything other than a lone sheet (and lots of safety pins...lots and lots!) we attended a party on a freaking, freezing cold day in Georgetown...we would both become very self conscious when someone would report that they had found a safety pin on the ground...many pins were
found...and we were lucky to leave before we were down to our fig-leaves. But, alas, I digress...(see my comments on digression in previous journal)...
Anyway...needless to say, Juliano and I having lots of intestinal fortitude, lots of testesterone, and a much warmer weather forecast, we agreed that we would also go commando! We'll see how macho we feel on Friday! Good night.
Jan. 9, 2000 (Wed):
Woke...had breakfast...Juliano and I went in search of Hepatitis B booster shot for me (3rd dose), Hepatitis A booster shot (2nd dose) and Malaria Pills...first went to one office of the Minesterio of Saude (Minister of Health)...then another...then another...we finally found ourselves in the head building for Minister of Health...we were directed to an office...and found ourselves speaking not only to an expert on Malaria...but THE EXPERT ON MALARIA FOR BRAZIL. She was the National Coordinatior for the Prevention of Malaria in Brazil...one of the benefits of being in the Capital City of Brazil...you can go straight to the top much quicker. Anyway, after much
discussion, she gave me 8 Malaria pills (enough for 1 month) for use while I was in the Amazon areas of the country.
NOTE: There has been a recent outbreak of Yellow Fever in certain parts of Brazil (not in the major/touristy spots)...this has gained lots of media in the past few weeks and shots are being offered to everyone here for free (darn-it...I took mine in the USA and it wasn't cheap!!!). So, if you are coming down here...either get your Yellow Fever shot before you arrive...or get it from the Ministerio de Saude in the big city/port of entry before you
travel into the interior.
We were then directed to another office in the building for Hepatitis A and B. We went to that office and spoke to the National Coordinator for the Prevention of Hepatitis for Brazil. She advised that Brazil only gives Hepatitis shots to people in high risk categories/jobs for Hep B and not at all for Hep A...but, she would arrange for me to get my Hep B shot. They didn't give the shots in that office, but she called another office that did, called and confirmed that we would be visiting and what we needed, and gave us the address.
Returned to the house...had lunch...napped in the hammock in Juliano's room...ahhhhh...woke from my luxurious slumber...went to the other office of health for my Hep B booster shot. She gave me the Hep B booster shot...and
was going to give Juliano a type of shot for prevention of 3 diseases of some sort...don't know what diseases...but figured, what the heck...the more shots and prevention, the better, eh? So I asked for the same shot...she
obliged and now I have been innoculated against something else...I don't have the faintest idea what I was innoculated against...but I feel much better anyway. (For any of you doctors/hypochondriachs (sp?) out there, she
wrote MMR: Lot 9309 Val: 07/2001 0.5 ml on my vaccination certificate...if you know what it is, please tell me, OK?). Anyway, she said that normally Juliano (not being in a high risk category, and not having the special "seal of approval" from the head of Hepatitis Prevention for Brazil) would have to pay for Hep. B innoculation...but since he was so nice, she have him the shot for free...as Juliano says, "...you can get anything you want in Brazil for free if you are just polite enough and know who to ask." ...so far, I have found that to be relatively true. Needless to say, we left the clinic happy...the positive attitude of the lady there had given us a real shot in the arm. (smile)
We then went to a big market area...walked around for awhile...I found a cool pair of sunglasses for 10 Reals ($5 USD) and Juliano shopped for zipper pants (yes, I have been telling ya'll...the newest best thing since sliced
bread...they are pants, they are shorts...they are both!!! The traveller's best friend...) but couldn't find them...they are still too trendy to be very common on Brazil, YET!
Went to visit Caroline at her house...sat around their eating her food and giving her grief in general...she is a very good gal and the type you love to be around but can't help giving lots of grief to...I like to say, "You only give grief to your friends...no point in wasting time on people you don't like." ...and I think it is very true. Called Jayne for dinner, but her back was still hurting her so she postponed until tomorrow.
Returned to the apartment...Juliano went to class, and I continued to read Twain's Roughing It...I am thoroughly enjoying this book...lots of interesting stories...and insights...
Juliano came back from work...we went out on the town...but found that the place we were going was closed on Wednesdays, and the other places seemed dead...so we bagged it and returned home. I hit the internet to catchup on
journals while I had free internet access and in the middle of the night, I would not interfere with anyone wanting to use the phone...one has to be sensitive to this stuff and not wear out one's welcome. Got done with a couple of journals and crashed at 7am...this stuff isn't easy, you know.
Feb. 10, 2000 (Thur):
Woke at 1pm...lunch...went to post office to send about 10 rolls of film back to the parents for safe-keeping. Now, I cannot tell you the trepidation that I feel everytime I send film back home...I mean, my film is my ONLY souvenir besides these journals...I am not buying stuff, I simply have photos, journals, and my fond memories as testament to my trip. I always send the film the highest priority and security possible (in this case it cost me $20USD for a small box), but I always wait with baited breath until the folks send me e-mail confirmation that the package has arrived at home...something akin to "The Eagle has Landed!" always lets me breathe somewhat easier.
Back at the apartment, I continued to read Twain's Roughing It. Then got ready and was picked up by Jayne to tour the city again. Visited Ingreja Dom Bosco...it is a huge square church with all four walls being entirely made of blue stained glass windows and an enormous chandalier in the center...it is beautiful, but impossible to take a picture...some things just have to be remembered. Next, we went back to the TV Tower in the center of the city and went up to the observation deck. It was great...an incredible view of the city. Next, we went to dinner in a restaurant I had seen, called El Paso, Texas (guess why I wanted to go there?). It was reputed to have Tex-Mex food...so we went there and sampled the cuisine. The enchiladas were OK...but the tacos were pretty poor and about half the size of a respectable taco. Also, Brazillians generally don't like anything spicy (hot)...so the salsa was more like Campbell's Tomato Soup than Old El Paso Picante. But, we had a great evening and a nice dinner. One problem with the decor was detected...there was a map on the wall...it showed El Paso and the boarders of Texas, Mexico, and New Mexico...but it labled the area that we know as New Mexico as TEXAS...and Texas was labled as
Mexico...probably some sort of Brazillian joke or Mexican fantasy of revisionist history...anyway, I pointed out the obvious geographical error to the waiters...they said they knew because one other person in the past 5 years had pointed it out...most Brazillians are not terribly knowledgeable of US/Texas/Mexico geography. Jayne dropped me off back at the apartment after dinner...she had to go home and rest because she had a pain in the neck and needed to rest some...or because I was a pain in the neck...I couldn't exactly translate it...oh, well.
When I returned to the apartment, Juliano and I headed out to party with one of his cousin's friends from college in Goiania. We went to pickup Daina and her sister...I had briefly met Daina the week before in Goiania during the bar brawl. Anyway, we went to the Fashion Club in Brasilia and danced the night away. Stayed out late dancing...got in around 4am. Used the internet again until 7am...crashed...
Doug
Texas Nomad